Sewing machine issues 101

Beginner classes aren't only about learning the basics of sewing a garment or a quilt top, its also an opportunity to learn more about our sewing machine - how to get the most of our machine, thread / tension issues and how to take care of our machine.

I am very fortunate to work with an amazing sewing machine technician who has been repairing machines for over 50 years.  I wish there was some method I could use to download his knowledge into my own brain, so when I can - I try and learn as much as I can.  I understand his frustration when 80% of machine issues that come into the shop (other than requiring a service) are user error (the main issues I list below).  We all do it (me included over the years), when our thread gets tangled in the bobbin race or doesn't appear to be sewing properly - we take it in to get fixed.

 This is the process I follow when I am having issues with my sewing.

1)  How old is you needle in the machine and is it the correct needle for the job?  Needles (apart from titanium ones) last approx. 8 hours of sewing.  If your not sure if you are using the correct needle - check the Schmetz website - they have a full description of the various needles available for the various tasks and fabrics.
I usually replace my needle after I have pieced an entire quilt and another when I have quilted an entire quilt.  Make sure you insert it correctly - flat side to the back and push it up as far as it can go then tighten the screw with a screw driver (otherwise vibration may loosen it and your needle drops into your work).
Use a good quality needle - Schmetz, Janome, Organ, Bernina and Inspire needles are all good quality product.

2)  Rethread your sewing machine.  Quite often the thread jumps out of the "take up lever "  - this can happen  in both mechanical and computerised machines - both old and new.

Take up lever is the metal hook pictured

Make sure your presser foot is up when rethreading your machine.  If it is down your tension disks are closed preventing your thread from sitting between the disks correctly.

3)  Check your bobbin.  Has the thread been wound on evenly?  I sometimes get problems when I am nearly out of bobbin thread.  Take your bobbin out and re-insert it.  Another NO NO - is winding different threads on top of each other.

4) Thread - are you using your grandmothers thread stock - throw it out or just use it for hand work.  Old 100% cotton thread over time becomes weak or rots. 
If you are using a thick thread then don't put it in the bobbin.  Use it on the top with a standard thread in your bobbin.  Domestic sewing machines are not made to use thick thread in the bobbin.
Overlocking thread (thinner) is made for overlockers - not sewing machines.  Lots of people use them as they are cheaper.  Note that they give of a LOT of lint so make sure you are cleaning your machine after every job.  This thread may also snap.
Domestic sewing machines love good quality thread like Gutermann and Mettler - not necessary the supermarket products.
If you are using embroidery thread - make sure you are using the correct machine needle otherwise it will continuously snap.  Embroidery needles have a larger eye and are usually colour coded red.

Machine needle threaders are fantastic however you do need to take care when using them.  This is for all brands of sewing machines that have them.  There is a tiny hook which lines up with the eye of the needle.  This hook can bend or break if you force it into the eye and its not lined up.
For computerised machines press your needle down and up button.  This will position your needle into the correct alignment for the threader hook.  Turning your computerised machine on also lines up your needle.  Needle threaders will not work on needle sizes smaller than 75/11.


Notice the tiny hook poking through the needle eye.
This hook can bend / break  very easily if not used correctly

 When sewing fine fabrics and thin knits like merino you will need to use a ball point needle (blue shaft) and possibly a wash away stabiliser.   I know this sounds odd - however I have seen this in action and it really works especially around neck lines, cuffs and waists - its stops the puckering.
Button holes also require stabilising and most patterns require you to insert interfacing.

When buying a machine from trade me or via and op shop - PLEASE check you have all the correct components.  It happens quite often that machines are sold with incorrect bobbins and feet.  This definitely will cause you sewing problems.  Check your manual - there should be a picture of what your bobbin / feet look like.  Note that the Walking Foot are not interchangeable between various brands.  Some of these feet are very expensive so I recommend that you buy the correct item from a dealer who has access to the correct parts of the brand of machine you are using. 

Thanks for reading through this post.  If you already know this information - then please pass this knowledge to any new sewers.  We want their first sewing experience to be a fantastic one.

Entrelac Knitting continued & fabric origami

WOW - World of Wearable Arts.  I attended this inspiring event last night.  The chorography, colour, music, dance and of course the costumes were outstanding.  If you haven't been - put this annual event on your to do list.  Make sure you pay a little extra to get good seats.

I haven't forgotten how to quilt.  I can't post any of my recent quilts as I am completing them for entry into NZ Symposium to be held in January.  One rule is that our quilts must not have been previously shown (displayed) or posted to the web.

I have been playing with fabric origami. Here's one of the blocks I have been making.  Couple of new ideas forming.  Watch this space :).

 Back to Entrelac knitting.  Here's my latest projects.



Cowl for my daughter made from NZ Tepako 8ply wool

Its 1.4 meters long and is wrapped twice around the head

 

I intend to felt this piece made from John Q creative DK wool.  Its a cheap yarn available from Knit World and is specially made for felting.  Most of our yarn sold has become machine washable so it won't felt.

I'll post the results next week.





Happy quilting and knitting.

Entrelac Knitting

I have completed this cowl for a friend's birthday next month using the Entrelac knitting style.  The yarn is a new DK Indiecita colour (code 7757 deep blue) by Alpacayarns.co.nz . If you haven't seen their yarn range - check out their website.
To learn how to knit this technique, google "Entrelac Knitting".  There are several " you tube" videos and other sites that offer a free pattern.  Some I notice use six stitches in each block.  I have used eight.

 

Yesterday one of our regular customers who is a beautiful knitter showed us this shawl (below) she has just completed for a friend's birthday (lucky friend).  I happened to have my mobile in my pocket and with her permission photographed it.  Its made from two ply hand dyed yarn. She came in with it rapped in the towel she had blocked it on.  If you can, scroll into the photograph for detail of the lace work - you'll see how perfect her stitches are.



 

Its great when people bring their work into the shop - its like a "show en tell every day."

Four sided Kaleidoscope class - Coastal Quilters

Wow I had fun on Saturday in the Technology block at Plimmerton School with members of Coastal Quilters. Great class and relaxed atmosphere.
Check out these photographs.

To create more spin these blocks were
cut into triangles. 

These look far better on point and blocks will "pop" when surrounded by a
solid colour.



To reduce the strong red strip from over
powering this delicate print squares
were then sub-cut into triangles
thus reducing the strong red strip
and enhancing the elegant flowers.

 By double pinning the center seams (June Nixey tip) before sewing - each student had perfect seams.

Lee Ann Newton - Pinestream Quilting Club

Thursday last week we had the pleasure of hearing Lee Anne Newton talk about her stunning quilts and we were encourage to touch them.  They were breath taking and inspiring.
I do encourage you to visit her blog  lee-annnewton.blogspot.co.nz to read the stories behind these stunning pieces.

Happy stitching

Entrelac Knitting

This style of knitting is really cool and I have purchased patterns from both Knittingdaily.com and Craftsy knitting site.  Both were for scarfs.  I prefer to wear cowls at work as they do not get in the way.

My first trial cowl is made with a gorgeous hand dyed Malabrigo  merino (12ply) from Holland Yarns in Petone (NZ).  I have knitted it length wise with the ends stitched together.   Its colourful and cosy to wear.  It was a little baggy so I have folded it over and stitched on a button.

My second cowl is knitted in  Indiecita baby alpaca DK yarn.  Using a solid colour definitely enhances the knitting pattern.

This time I knitted the cowl width wise.  Entrelac knitting works in blocks of eight stitches so I cast on 96 stitches.  This gave me one firm and one loose edge which enables me to wear this cowl in several different ways.







firm edge on the top of this cowl - loose edge at bottom.

Firm edge is on my shoulders - loose edge around my throat opening to the center.



Firm edge on my shoulders - loose edge around
 my throat opening to one side.

Loose edge on my shoulders with firm
 edge around my throat.

 
   

close up of the Entrelac knitting.

I'm about to start my third piece for a friend.  This time the cowl will be a little longer with button holes.  I will knit it length wise.  Will post when its finished.

Happy stitching friends.

Meshwork update

This image was sent to me yesterday from a student who attended Saturday's class. I think she has the "bug".  For more inspirational patterns check out these meshwork books.  Unfortunately I have just heard today (3 September) that these books are no-longer in print - so if you do come across one of these books - make sure you buy them - maybe your only chance.


We did have a problem with the clover fusible tape and a couple of batiks.  Some batiks have a residue on the surface.  I'm pretty sure that this maybe the reason the fusible tape would not iron onto it.  I have also noticed this problem with fabrics containing a metallic or painted surface.

If using batiks for your meshwork then I recommend that you pre-wash them and do a test strip with your tape before cutting more strips.

Enjoy the rest of your week.