Why you should use a Sewing Machine Needle Cushion

We spend a lot of money purchasing fabric and yet we tend to be stingy when it comes to buying sewing machine needles.  Spending $6 to $10 on a pack is nothing compared to damaging a $30 - $100 piece of fabric.  Did you know that sewing machine needles have an average life of 8 hours sewing time?

If you hear a popping sound as you sew or your bobbin thread starts nesting then I would consider changing your needle before it starts damaging your fabric.  Do not wait until your needle breaks to replace it!  I have heard sewers complain that their machine has tension issues.  I usually ask them when they changed their needle last.  Most common answer - it hasn't broken yet!  When questioning them further they mention that they have never changed it since buying their machine!

There are differnt needles for different fabric and styles of sewing.  Each needle type is built differntly.  For example, topstitch (embroidary) needles have a larger eye which prevents decorative threads such as rayon's from snapping as you sew.  Ballpoints / Jersey are designed to sew knits fabrics.  There is a lot of information on needles available at: https://www.schmetzneedles.com/all-about-needles/ and https://storage.googleapis.com/vw-superiorthreads/docs/superior-needle-graphic.pdf

It is also important to consider the quality of the needles you are buying.  Cheap is not usually best.  Some brands the needles are polished and others they are dipped in an acid.  Some look straight to the eye but infact can be slightly bent thus causing damage to your needle plate or bobbin shuttle/case.

Your machine manual will also give you recommendations on the correct needle type for your machine.  For example, some of the Singer sewing machines require needles that are slightly shorter than the generic machine needles.  Check your manual and if you are not sure, check with the supplier you purchased your machine from.

Make sure when changing your needle that you insert it as high as it can go.  Tighten the needle screw with a screw driver to ensure your needle doesn't drop out.

Now back to my post heading.  Why you should use a sewing machine needle cushion.

We have watched our mothers, grandmothers or other sewers take their needle out of their machine and place it back into the packet.  Hmmmmm - how do you know which are your new needles?

Please don't put a used needle back into the packet it came from.  Make a machine needle cushion that can sit next your machine.


I use a Clover needle cushion (top right).  Notice the seperate sections?  Its easy enough to make your own.  I have made smaller machine needle cushions for my class as gifts (left).  I have separated and labelled each section.

So how does it work?
I frequently sew with different dress fabrics and also quilt so swap my needles regularly.  I have completed machine quilting a baby quilt and now I want to start making a cotton dress.  I know that I haven't used my quilting needle for 8 hours sewing so I remove it and place it in the quilting section of my cushion.  After completing my dress, I place my needle into the 80/12 section. Before I commence a new project, I check my needle cushion for the required needle and only reach for a new one if a used one is not available.

One more thing.  I have a small glass jar (jam size) in which i put all my blunt pins & safety pins, old machine needles, blunt rotary cutting blades and any other "sharp" items I want to dispose of.  Once the jar is full, then they are disposed of or recycled (if possible).

Happy stitching.
Shirls

My satchel made from old denim

I started cutting 4" squares from two pairs of old denim jeans.  One pair darker and than other to create a contrast.  I wanted to see how well denim would work using the stacking bowtie technique.  Initially I had considered making a skirt but decided that maybe I should try something smaller first.

I  quilted the interior fabric with needle punch and stitched trimex onto the back of my main fabric (stacking bowtie denim) since a satchel is usually a very firm bag.  The trimex made it very difficult to sew when assembling the bag.  In fact I had to upgrade my machine needle size to 110 (bent the 100). 

The sides of the bag are only supported by needle punch - maybe a double layer or a heavy Vilene should have been added to prevent them from collapsing a little.

The strap is made from jean legs.  I avoided using the knees as this part of the fabric was stretched.

It was meant to be a fun project but without a pattern I did a LOT of unpicking.  My Janome Horizon 7700 managed to sew through the thick layers but in some areas my stitching is a little rough - had trouble manipulating all the layers particularly where I had placed trimex.



Interior fabric



Rose jean buttons - found these at the Sewing Depot (Petone NZ)



The back. 

I'm still deciding how I will secure the flap of the satchel but have decided against magnets (they are either to weak or to strong), a zip (annoying - especially if it jams) and buckles. I am thinking of using two pieces of fine elastic (or something similar) which will be sewn behind the center diamond and can be stretched over the two rose jean buttons on the edge of the flap.  Will post a picture once I have figured this out.

4 Standard jean buttons have been placed at the bottom of the bag help protect the fabric from soiling when placed down on the floor etc.  I thought this was clever however this hasn't quite worked with this bag as I hadn't made a rectangle base so doesn't quite sit flat.

Still - I'm really happy with it and have learnt a lot making this satchel.  I won't be making a skirt using this technique out of denim as it will be to heavy.  My next plan is to try linen.

Happy sewing friends.

Sewing machine issues 101

Beginner classes aren't only about learning the basics of sewing a garment or a quilt top, its also an opportunity to learn more about our sewing machine - how to get the most of our machine, thread / tension issues and how to take care of our machine.

I am very fortunate to work with an amazing sewing machine technician who has been repairing machines for over 50 years.  I wish there was some method I could use to download his knowledge into my own brain, so when I can - I try and learn as much as I can.  I understand his frustration when 80% of machine issues that come into the shop (other than requiring a service) are user error (the main issues I list below).  We all do it (me included over the years), when our thread gets tangled in the bobbin race or doesn't appear to be sewing properly - we take it in to get fixed.

 This is the process I follow when I am having issues with my sewing.

1)  How old is you needle in the machine and is it the correct needle for the job?  Needles (apart from titanium ones) last approx. 8 hours of sewing.  If your not sure if you are using the correct needle - check the Schmetz website - they have a full description of the various needles available for the various tasks and fabrics.
I usually replace my needle after I have pieced an entire quilt and another when I have quilted an entire quilt.  Make sure you insert it correctly - flat side to the back and push it up as far as it can go then tighten the screw with a screw driver (otherwise vibration may loosen it and your needle drops into your work).
Use a good quality needle - Schmetz, Janome, Organ, Bernina and Inspire needles are all good quality product.

2)  Rethread your sewing machine.  Quite often the thread jumps out of the "take up lever "  - this can happen  in both mechanical and computerised machines - both old and new.

Take up lever is the metal hook pictured

Make sure your presser foot is up when rethreading your machine.  If it is down your tension disks are closed preventing your thread from sitting between the disks correctly.

3)  Check your bobbin.  Has the thread been wound on evenly?  I sometimes get problems when I am nearly out of bobbin thread.  Take your bobbin out and re-insert it.  Another NO NO - is winding different threads on top of each other.

4) Thread - are you using your grandmothers thread stock - throw it out or just use it for hand work.  Old 100% cotton thread over time becomes weak or rots. 
If you are using a thick thread then don't put it in the bobbin.  Use it on the top with a standard thread in your bobbin.  Domestic sewing machines are not made to use thick thread in the bobbin.
Overlocking thread (thinner) is made for overlockers - not sewing machines.  Lots of people use them as they are cheaper.  Note that they give of a LOT of lint so make sure you are cleaning your machine after every job.  This thread may also snap.
Domestic sewing machines love good quality thread like Gutermann and Mettler - not necessary the supermarket products.
If you are using embroidery thread - make sure you are using the correct machine needle otherwise it will continuously snap.  Embroidery needles have a larger eye and are usually colour coded red.

Machine needle threaders are fantastic however you do need to take care when using them.  This is for all brands of sewing machines that have them.  There is a tiny hook which lines up with the eye of the needle.  This hook can bend or break if you force it into the eye and its not lined up.
For computerised machines press your needle down and up button.  This will position your needle into the correct alignment for the threader hook.  Turning your computerised machine on also lines up your needle.  Needle threaders will not work on needle sizes smaller than 75/11.


Notice the tiny hook poking through the needle eye.
This hook can bend / break  very easily if not used correctly

 When sewing fine fabrics and thin knits like merino you will need to use a ball point needle (blue shaft) and possibly a wash away stabiliser.   I know this sounds odd - however I have seen this in action and it really works especially around neck lines, cuffs and waists - its stops the puckering.
Button holes also require stabilising and most patterns require you to insert interfacing.

When buying a machine from trade me or via and op shop - PLEASE check you have all the correct components.  It happens quite often that machines are sold with incorrect bobbins and feet.  This definitely will cause you sewing problems.  Check your manual - there should be a picture of what your bobbin / feet look like.  Note that the Walking Foot are not interchangeable between various brands.  Some of these feet are very expensive so I recommend that you buy the correct item from a dealer who has access to the correct parts of the brand of machine you are using. 

Thanks for reading through this post.  If you already know this information - then please pass this knowledge to any new sewers.  We want their first sewing experience to be a fantastic one.

Beginners quilt completed. The New Janome Purple tipped Machine Needles

With all the flu illnesses floating around at the moment, our class was very low on numbers on Saturday.  I just love seeing finished "first" quilts.  Helen finished her quilt and now has quilt number two under production.  Rather than putting piano key blocks around the border, she has used up all her 2 1/2" squares.

I spoke with a woman today who was looking to buy a new sewing machine.  Her family home had been burgled and all their computer gear including portable drives containing years of photographs, ALL her sewing machines and accessories like embroidery disks were stolen.  Sometimes we need to be reminded to back up our files and photos, and document serial numbers. 
My powerhouse Janome Horizon is having its first annual service.  It's been thrashed so I'm using this time to back up all my class notes, quilt and family photographs.

Glen introduced me to Janome's new Purple Tip sewing machine needles which have just been released in New Zealand.

Here's some more info on them.

They are specifically designed to effectively prevent skipped stitches when you are sewing with stretch fabrics; multiple layers of fabric e.g. quilts; and when sewing across bulky seams e.g. at a hemline.

I have been asked if these are ball point needles?  Yes, it has a ball point tip but also have a COBRA HEAD which opens up the fibres of the fabric allowing the needle to pierce thick layers, tightly woven fabrics or “difficult” stretch fabrics with ease.  The needle actually goes between the fibres.

My verdict:  FANTASTIC.  I quilted a queen size quilt in the weekend with the acufeed foot with full speed and free motioned a babies quilt. The needle just flew through the fabric but what impressed me was how it stitched through thick seam layers easily.  They are a little bit more expensive than the other needles.  They retail in NZ for $11.00
Happy stitching everyone.


Shirls

Apps I have on my Ipad

I love my Ipad - because I can see the screen and its a very handy quilting reference tool.

Here is a list of the Apps I use quite often or encourage my beginners to use.  Some are free - others aren't.





 SCHMETZ needles (free).  This app tells you everything you need to know about sewing machine needles - needles by fabric type, needle types, solving problems, needle knowledge.  Very easy to use with their drop down menus and great pictures.

I should point out though - SCHMETZ will fit most domestic sewing machines and sewing machine companies like Janome, Bernina, Singer have their own needle codes/colours.  When using this app I look for the type of needle I require for the job I intend to do then look through my Janome or Singers (depending on the machine I'm using) needles to see if there is one that matches.  If not - then I use a SCHMETZ.

While I'm talking about sewing machine needles - Janome have just released their "Purple Tip Needles" for all Janome models.  These effectively prevents  skipped stitches when sewing stretch fabrics, quilt layers and for sewing across the hem.  So I have a packet and I will test drive them when I free motion a quilt later this week.  They are a little more expensive than the standard needles.


BlockFab-HD

Very easy to use - has a massive quilt block library.  All you do is choose your block, enter required block size,fabrics colours and it calculates your fabric requirement (its in yards).  It also has a layout page which so you can see your chosen block repeated as a quilt.

QuiltCalc
I'm a visual girl so when it comes to maths - forget it. 
This app also known as "The Quilter's Little Helper"  does your fabric calculations for you.  Easy option to change measurements from inches to Metric.

 Keepsake Quilting is a quilt shop in America.  A lot of NZ quilters receive their catalogue.  I find them an interesting reference for new "toys" for quilting.  You choose which catalogue to download.  It does take a while to download.








FootBook

Simply the best (my opinion anyway)

This App is a must for Janome users.  It's not free and you need to be linked to Wi-Fi.  It lists all the different types of feet available for Janome sewing machines.  I should point out that these also fit the majority of Elna machines.
It includes the new machine models with the 9mm wide feet.

When you select a foot, you are provided with a part number, description of how it is used and a video demonstration.
Includes an option to list the feet you own and to create a wish list.

What about commission work - tracking the hours it takes to make a quilt.
I've loaded HoursTracker

This app can be used for any task really - not just for quilting. You set up a job then just click in "Clock in Now" to start your time, then "Clock out Now" to stop.  It tracks your hours - very simple.
You will be surprised how quickly time mounts up.







as Bugs Bunny would say - "that's all folks"

Happy quilting

Joining pieces of batting

After a while we collect remnants of batting from all our quilts.  I join larger pieces together and use them in other quilts.  But what about the smaller pieces?  For years I joined pieces of batting using  herringbone stitch by hand which is slow and tedious.  If I tried using my zigzag stitch on my machine I would often create waves from stretching the batting.  Recently I purchased a quilters ditch foot for my Janome (S foot).  This foot has a center guide where you can butt both pieces of fabric against it thus making this task very simple with the result of a flat join.  RULE - make sure your edges of each piece of batting you are stitching together are cut straight.

I increase my zigzag width to 6.5mm and stitch length to 2.  Do a test piece to make sure your stitches are not to far apart (causing batting to stretch) or to close (causing batting to pucker).

I don't recommend using lots of little pieces of batting for large bed quilts - however great for those smaller projects (i.e. wall hangings).

Batting butted each side of the foot guide.

 

 



Small pieces of batting zigzagged together using the ditch foot.  There is no loft in the joins - they lay flat.

Notice the right side of this piece of joined batting.  It wavers as it was not cut straight before the join.  It wont lay flat and may cause issues when you commence quilting.

Do make sure you are joining similar weight and loft pieces of batting .

 happy quilting

Kaleidoscope / Quilting Tips

I have just completed a wall hanging where the background is made up of kaleidoscope blocks. I fused the background blocks with a thin iron interfacing.  This was to prevent my blocks from stretching (as they are on the bias) while I hand applique my image onto it.  This worked realy well.

I machine quilted my piece with my new sewing machine (Janome Horizon 7700).  I have to say I am missing the BSR foot which my Bernina had, that regulated my free motion stitches but I'll get better with practise.  So therefore some unpicking was required.

When unpicking you are left with stitch holes in your fabric.  There are two methods I use to close them up.  (click on image to view holes)
With a needle or pin, I carefully move the weft & warp threads working them to close the hole.  This works with most cottons however I wouldn't use this method on silk as you will scratch it.  If the holes are not closing well or you are using a very fine fabric, lightly damp the area with cold water (light spray or cotton bud) then rub lightly with your finger then press with an iron.

I use the later method quite a bit. Though today I did have an accident.  I had used a fine black mesh on my piece to create a shadow effect.  So after unpicking my stitching, I wet the fabric to close up the holes then ironed it, promptly forgetting about the mesh and melting it into the background fabric.  Needless to say my iron has black mesh melted onto it.  Trick to remove gunk from the bottom of your iron is to iron a brown paper bag.  In most cases it gets it of. 

With acidents comes discoveries - I had already quilted over the mesh and with it now melted into my fabric, it has created hard surface and now wont lift or frae.

I've named this piece Spinning Koru.  For those of you reading my blog from outside of New Zealand, Koru is the Maori name for a curling fern frond.  As the frond grows, it uncurls.  Bit like new life.  Koru means twist. 

Center of the Spinning Koru

Spinning Koru

Happy quilting  Shirls